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Warm and welcoming for punters from all walks of life, Bear’s is exactly what a neighbourhood wine bar should be. There’s a gamut-running wine list, penny-pinching pint-sized cocktails, kangaroo dim sims and hefty, triple-cooked potato cakes.

Of the latter, rich and creamy innards are cased in a rice and tapioca flour batter enlivened with bicarb soda and a flash of sherry vinegar, which react into a filigree of startling crunch. This being a wine bar and not the neighbourhood fish and chipper, there’s creme fraiche and lumpfish caviar to swipe these bad boys through, though just like any self-respecting local, they’re fond of throwing in an extra one for free (a serve is nominally $16 for three)

The Queensberry Street hang-out is run by North Melbourne local Austin Kangket and his sommelier friend Nathan Schofield, who met while working together at hatted Flinders Lane restaurant Supernormal.

A menu of mini cocktails includes a half-sized negroni, Tommy’s margarita and even a rye whisky and pony chaser that won’t send you to the sobriety wall. The clever wine list runs to their theme of “interesting wine from interesting producers” from all around Oz. Go by the glass and varieties such as gruner veltliner, garganega and marsanne muscle out old mates sauv blanc and chardonnay.

And for dessert? A deep-fried Tim Tam, please.