'Boom!' go the flavours at Chin Chin - sour tamarind, tangy citrus - each dish bright and aromatic with authentic Thai tastes. They match the raucous vibe at this modern diner, a converted warehouse with exposed bricks and boards, a loud, mostly '80s, soundtrack, in-your-face service and usually a queue for tables packed tight. Benjamin Cooper's strong Thai cooking inspires the kitchen. From the barbecue might come magnificent salmon, lusciously soft and flavoursome with coconut red curry, lime and Thai basil in its banana-leaf jacket. Signature kingfish sashimi is juicy, fleshy and bright with lime, chilli, Asian basil and zigzags of coconut cream. You're warned about 'not-for-amateurs' jungle curry - it's hot but not outrageously so - a gingery, soupy brew with soft-cooked wild boar. Say 'feed me' and they'll dish up a customised spread for $66 a head. Sundae heaven is a tumbler of palm sugar icecream, crunchy salted honeycomb and lime syrup. First date, last date, city lunch - Chin Chin's bold, brash nature makes it an exciting place to dine.