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Seasoned Sydney venue operators Brett and Susie Pritchard (ex-Ron’s Upstairs, Redfern Continental and Arcadia Liquors) have opened their first Melbourne venue on the northern end of Lygon Street. And it’s their biggest endeavour yet. The spacious site is home to both The Coffee Bar, an adjoining sandwich shop in the brewery’s former loading dock, and Bar Elsie, a nostalgic neighbourhood bistro named for Brett’s late grandmother.

Normandy-born chef Edmee Driez (ex-Three Blue Ducks) has assembled a Euro-leaning menu of deeply comforting dishes. Italian inspiration is found in starters such as coccoli (literally “cuddles” in Italian), which are Florentine fried bread balls made for swiping through whipped ricotta and wrapping in serrano ham. Slices of cheesy Roman gnocchi, distinct from its potato-based cousin, are made with semolina and pecorino, and baked in the oven.

Bistro-style mains include Driez’s spin on fish 𝄒n𝄒 chips – mirror Dory fillet in beurre blanc with salt-and-vinegar crisps and rainbow chard – and crumbed pork chop on the bone. The 300-gram rib-eye is brined in apple cider vinegar for 24 hours, cooked in clarified butter, and paired with fresh horseradish and a radicchio-and-celery remoulade.

Dropping in for a cold beer at the sweeping U-shaped bar is welcomed. Taps are pouring everything from Carlton Draught to Venom’s cherry sour, plus there are classic cocktails such as Daiquiris, with plans to expand the list.

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