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Cordelia, the sophomore venue by the Don’s team, is a little less rowdy and a little more refined than it’s Prahran sibling. It’s on the same Rathdowne Street block as hatted Bar Bellamy, and is more restaurant than bar, homing in on sustainably sourced seafood.

Seafood comes via Sydney-based supplier Andrew Joseph, also known as The Afishonado. Driven by what’s available, the menu shapeshifts day to day – and isn’t posted online. There are some constants, though. Always expect pasta, like a bouillabaisse-inspired Moreton Bay bug casarecce; a “hectic, KFC-looking” fish burger (only served at lunch Wednesday and Thursday) akin to the fried-chicken sandwich at Don’s; and a hibachi-grilled whole fish.

Beyond that, Norris keeps it “playful”. You might find octopus and merguez sausage skewers or coral trout with apricot beurre blanc. Cordelia’s “Happy Meal” is either an oyster, scallop or frites with a mini cocktail for $20; another Wednesday and Thursday special, it’s on from 3pm to 5pm.

But it’s not all seafood. Norris says Cordelia is the “only restaurant ever” to serve beef from Myall Springs, his family’s certified-organic farm in north-west NSW, which usually sells exclusively to butchers. Lean cuts become tartare, prime cuts become steaks.

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