Buckle up. This experimental set menu is akin to a psychedelic journey. Chef-owner Mo Zhou works this prison-chic 12-seater on Fitzroy’s coolest strip with a quiet intensity and singular vision, focused on sustainability and Victorian produce.

Seafood is king. You might be served abalone two ways: delicate slices in chicken dashi with lurid nasturtium oil, and as a subtle pâté in a two-bite milk bun showered in snowy macadamia. Lobster might also take an unexpected path: generous chunks tossed with fatty pork jowl and brittle fried saltbush leaves in a dressing sweet with sake lees.

There’s a genuinely thrilling drinks pairing: a succession of unfamiliar grapes and leftfield sake. Things stay fanciful for dessert. Persimmon is baked in a bed of hay for six hours to form a rich, ruby-hued jelly which is offset by cool olive oil sorbet. Sweet, sensory assault.

Best for: Letting go of expectations and kicking back for a freewheeling experimental meal.

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