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It’s hard to go broke serving pizza and pasta by the seaside. It’s what we want to eat, where we want to eat it. Toss in Orazio D’Elia’s wood-fired porchetta and it’s no wonder the chef has expanded into a dining space next door, with outdoor tables lining Bondi’s “Hub” arcade.

Maurice Terzini may have set the tone for this eternal coastal Italian trattoria (the Iceberg’s restaurateur is no longer involved), but D’Elia maintains the spirit with Neapolitan-style pizza that’s big and puffy-crusted.

Dough is highly hydrated so it’s more digestible, whether topped with sugo, oregano, anchovies and capers, or a creamy cacio e pepe tribute brightened with lemon zest. The signature spicy vodka rigatoni is hard to pass up, and when waitstaff turn up at the table with a tray of dessert samples, dolce is a foregone conclusion.