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Bring your neighbours, your wine buffs, your ravenous teenagers. Snare a seat beneath the heaters on the wide footpath outside and you can even bring your dog. In a room of terrazzo-topped tables and lively conversation, Tony and Peter Giannakis ensure everyone feels like a regular.

The twin-brother hospitality pros run the herringbone parquetry floor with good humour, panache and eyes in the backs of their heads, greeting walk-ins with one hand and pouring top shelf chablis with the other. The kitchen’s skill with seafood makes it hard to bypass dory poached in tomato broth and punctuated by green olives.

But chicken liver parfait with quince jam is equally credible, as is precision-cut salmon crudo with pickled bullhorn pepper and crunchy buckwheat. Puffy bomboloni with chocolate cream stand out on a greatest-hits dessert list.