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On a cold and quiet night, this laneway hideout is absolutely jumping. That may be because of a recent chef endorsement for its tortellini in brodo. But it’s more likely because Emilia consistently delivers.

Warm and unpretentious, it nails special occasions with golden lighting, white tablecloths and warehouse bones. Friends, dates and office mates create a happy clatter as they split plates of airy gnocco fritto slathered in stracciatella and piled with prosciutto.

A generous vitello tonnato with fried sage is the prelude to dreamy tortellini: plump with chopped mortadella and swaddled in a rich parmesan sauce. Wise diners share, but pleasure seekers know some secrets are best kept. Get in on this one – you won’t regret it.