The distinctive soaring tower of Mitchelton winery hints at the ambitions of its popular restaurant below. Local producers are named and mapped on a classics-heavy menu. Wood-grilled Sevens Creek wagyu is upstaged by tangy rémoulade; triple-cooked potatoes from Somerset Farm prove themselves as fork-sized gravy sponges.

Decked out like the ultimate country living room, with snug fireplace and vine-shaded terrace, The Muse also boasts worldly swagger. Grilled calamari gets lift-off from fiery XO sauce and estate-grown lime while tender venison loin with enoki mushrooms and generous red wine jus reveals layers of umami.

It’s estate wine or nothing, but take advantage of hard-to-find releases such as the bright 2019 AER pinot noir, then enjoy a stroll by the river, its bends visible from the restaurant. Alternatively, book a night at the swish on-site Hecker Guthrie-designed hotel.