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Supernormal, that rascally pan-Asian diner, never stops to take a breath. Whether it’s Monday or Saturday, crowds are shoulder to shoulder at bar seats and booths. They’re lured by those neon red cherry-shaped eyes in the window, which have become visual shorthand for “deliciousness this way”.

Waitstaff zip around the bustle that fills the otherwise serene-looking room of wood and concrete. They’re delivering pork and garlic chive pot-sticker dumplings under toffee-like pastry lace. Or fat tteokbokki, the tubular Korean rice cakes, bobbing in a sesame-speckled sweet chilli glaze. Both make sensational snacks with a cold beer.

Milawa chicken, its skin deeply lacquered, gets cleaved into generous pieces awash in the lavish umami of green harissa and miso butter. The iconic New England lobster roll is only made better by New Zealand blanc de blancs, one of many gems on the wine list. Hungry Melburnians, unite.