Norma’s calling card is its housemade semolina pasta. Take your pick from punchy, prawn-laden linguine; cheesy, al dente conchiglione shells cradling mushroom, peas and salty pops of guanciale; and those enormous tubes called paccheri, sauced with rich beef ragu.

Even more appealing is its laser-like focus on the good stuff. Street seats are primed for pear Bellinis and loading white anchovies onto just-torn bread. The glimmering emerald bar encourages post work parties for one.

Tick-a-box, order-at-the-bar menus mean it’s easy to summon (excellent) extras, such as lemon-bright borlotti bean dip, pickled vegetables with fat coins of salami, or miniature pork schnitzels with tonnato sauce.

There’s a tight list of local and Italian beers and wines, and the smarts extend right to the bittersweet finish: Campari-spiked blood orange juice poured over passionfruit sorbet.