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Palm Springs or Amalfi Coast? The palette conveys Californian cool, with sage green and pops of orange. But the photos of sapphire-coloured beaches and sun-weathered men, the sprightly vermentino in your glass, and the menu peppered with crudo, capers and agrodolce are unmistakably a tribute to The Boot.

Wines come from cult producers spanning Piedmont to Sicily. Grilled radicchio brings an assertive note to vitello tonnato made with lightly seared veal backstrap. Large flecks of lemon zest brighten housemade ricotta tortelloni, and roast chicken basks in a pool of tarragon butter sauce.

Focaccia is brought over unprompted with a saucy dish of mussels, cannellini beans and smoky ’nduja – a gesture that’s the definition of hospitality, no matter where you are in the world.