If you’re lucky enough to visit Henry Sugar during truffle season, do not hesitate. The $14 supplement will earn you a shower of truffles so generous you’ll think you’re in a Michelin-starred Parisian fine diner, not a bistro in Carlton North.

Its spirit of generosity is the essence of this restaurant. Delicate house-made linguine comes with heapings of Moreton Bay bug. Mushroom pithiviers with walnut and wattleseed is one of the most ambitious (and delicious) vegetarian dishes around. And the Sunday $50 three-course lunches are unrivalled in terms of value.

There’s a feeling here of good people trying to offer something special to the community – in the service but also the food and the overall atmosphere. Add plentiful footpath seating and new boutique accommodation upstairs, and Henry Sugar is off the charts on the heartfelt affability front.