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Those in the inner north know Citrus. In the four years since opening, this family-owned restaurant has drawn a following for its nourishing all-you-can eat Sri Lankan fare.

In a low-lit dining room amid images of tea plantations, roaring waterfalls and wild elephants, a stream of diners moves along the buffet. They’re piling their plates high with cumin-rich biryani, potato simmered with mustard seeds and chilli, sticky-spicy devilled fish, and hearty lentil dhal.

A heap of fluffy saffron rice is a necessity, as is customising with condiments: super-sour lime achcharu (pickle), pineapple chutney and flossy coconut sambol.

It’s not all buffet-style, though. String hoppers kothu can be ordered a la carte, as can watalappan, the coconut milk pudding sweetened with jaggery. Can’t get enough sweet stuff? Falooda – the drink of condensed milk, rose syrup and basil – will satisfy.