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As Sorrento’s main strip evolves into a high-end high street, there’s one address that maintains the ease of earlier times. Distressed walls, a mish-mash of artworks and soft lighting ensure Elba stays abuzz, even in the off-season.

Bobs, boat shoes and bijou form the dress code for locals, but more casually clad blow ins are welcomed. Generous hospitality also comes via piled-high servings.

A main course worth of steak tartare has the requisite tang of cornichons and capers; house-made potato crisps are on standby for scooping. Flounder meuniere ticks the Gallic and Australian boxes with its puddle of buttery lemon sauce scattered with saltbush. Golden duck confit is teamed with earthy Puy lentils.

The triumphant finish might be a petite couverture-rich chocolate bavarois balanced by tart cherries and poached blood plums. It’s always the weather for this seaside bistro.