A flaky dome hides a cosy bowl of onion soup, stringy with comte. Scallops come cheesy and crumb-topped, au gratin. Jellied marrow wobbles in a roasted beef bone, asking to be spooned on house-baked sourdough, and the print on your plate says, “je t’aime”. Yes, classic French is loud and proud at this welcoming, well-staffed local with its bentwood chairs, leather banquettes and food-friendly French and Australian wines by the glass, bottle and carafe. Tucked under an apartment block, Loulou goes from bakery and charcuterie on one side to a candle-lit bistro on the other – each a pillar of cuisine francaise. A side of smoky, peppery cavolo nero with your steak frites? Another white negroni or glass of savagnin? Oui, Loulou. Sneak in a few madeleines with Earl Grey sugar, too.