Twenty-seven years on, this Sydney institution remains an enchanting, old-world escape, with service as flawless and wonderfully whimsical as ever. But is the spark still there? It depends who you talk to - and what you eat. Owner Armando Percuoco keeps a watchful eye over a dining room that’s seen it all and decor that’s collected something from every decade. The menu straddles old and new but it’s the classics that dazzle, such as deeply purple prosciutto-wrapped figs that surrender to a pool of gorgonzola at a mere fork prod, or wickedly indulgent truffled-egg fettuccine; still two of Sydney’s best dishes. Raw calamari with salmon roe, poppy seeds and sea urchin gelato almost worked, but two grilled lamb cutlets with salsa verde and candy-sweet beetroot was unremarkable, and at a rather cheeky price-point. Sublime torta mascarpone with savoiardi, boozy cherries and airy meringue sets everything right.

And … Upstairs offers a more modern feel and can be booked for private groups.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Old-school Italian.
Best bit Luscious truffled-egg fettuccine tossed at the table.
Worst bit Decor and glassware from the old school.