Heard of the big night out? Well, this is Sydney’s big day out, gastronomically speaking. An hour’s drive or fast seaplane flight from the city to the beautiful Hawkesbury, a pontoon landing, and you’re at a clothed table with a McCubbin-like backdrop of Australian bush reflected in the glittering water. And then, an orchestrated series of very careful, precise and joyful dishes, from an opening cream-and-crunch of tomato in gel, leaf and sorbet forms, to a stunning evocation of egg, bacon and chips in a roast potato consomme, and an overly-honeyed savoury course of sweetbreads, pumpkin and pistachios. The slightly formal but charming service, the iconic location, and a final flurry of desserts that pass in a blur of coconut foam and cucumber sorbet, each one lighter and more luminous than the last, confirms that this exceptional dining destination is still in very good hands.

And … The Glenn Murcutt-designed building is as magnificent as ever.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Special, romantic, gastronomic.
Best bit Approaching by boat or plane.
Worst bit Slight over-formality.