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Byron’s food scene has changed plenty in the decade since the Ducks set up their farmhouse eatery just off the freeway exit for Byron Bay.

Yet for all the hatted newcomers, this sprawling agrarian amusement park is still packing in punters, feasting on turmeric-tinged chicken to a soundtrack of roosters, pulling the meat from a jumble of roasted bug tails with charred greens only a few clicks from the ocean, and shattering sheets of crisp pork crackling over chilled porchetta and sharp zucchini pickles in view of piglets.

Wines and beers trend as local as the ingredients, and an ice-cream stand, seedling stall and assorted other merchants give the whole thing a sunny market feel.

Can’t score a table? Pick up a picnic hamper, find a patch of grass and feast as you watch kids chase a tractor.