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There’s a familiar warmth to this Berry stalwart. You might even call it homely, enlivened by an upbeat soundtrack that conjures an image of the kitchen crew grooving and mucking about, flicking tea towels like siblings do when they’re on washing-up duty.

For 11 years, owners Sonia Greig and John Evans have championed NSW and South Coast growers and winemakers, and their three course menu gives the produce top billing.

Ulladulla tuna is served raw with blood orange, ponzu and dollops of whipped avocado (a fine match with a refreshing Nick Spencer pinot gris from the Hilltops region), while roasted sirloin with olive-oil mash has an option to add Robertson truffles.

There’s no tweezers, no foams and it’s all the better for it, the focus on real food and excellent service by people (including Kin Chen, who some may remember from Billy Kwong) who make you feel special.