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Welcome to Neil Perry’s 24th restaurant, just up the road from Margaret and Next Door, his 22nd and 23rd.

The 1960s heritage Gaden House is born again as a three-storey Cantonese banquet house, with rippled cedar walls, marble counters and graceful songbird motifs and a menu (stacked with fine Perry-sourced produce) that dances from Spencer Gulf prawn dumplings to mud crab from the tanks.

Peking duck is so glossy-skinned it looks French-polished, spring rolls are of lobster and scallop, and the crisp pepper beef pancake is destined to be a crowd favourite. In the basement, an elegant cocktail bar called Bobbie’s is all tinkling ice, green olives and live music.

Note that as at all big Cantonese restaurants, big portions make it easier for a table of four to share, than a table of two – until it comes to the black sesame ice-cream sandwiches, of course, when you’ll want as many as you can get.