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Tired of so much same-same raw kingfish? Book a seat at homely little Sang, where it comes with crunchy pops of brown rice, swirls of sesame paste and pickled garlic scapes for punch. Refreshing stuff.

Sydney Korean restaurants often take a no-holds-barred approach to flavour, but husband and wife chefs Seung Kee and Jin Sun Son show off the subtler sides of the cuisine – sheets of pickled white radish wrapping cucumber and pear, for instance, or juicy Los Angeles-style short-ribs deftly balancing sweet and savoury.

Classics are also accounted for, including garlic-chive pancakes and pudgy pork mandu, the dumplings pan-fried for added crunch. Shatteringly crisp fried chicken loves a chilled gamay, and Sang offers a succinct wine list of independent Australian producers for the occasion. House kimchi and pickles add even more interest, as does $10 corkage. Refreshing? Yep. Delicious? Always.