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Clare Smyth is a fan of Eric Carmen’s Hungry Eyes. We know because she compiled the Oncore soundtrack herself – although the chef is usually at Core, her three-Michelin starred London restaurant, Smyth’s presence here is undeniable.

A sublime chicken-liver-parfait tart stems from her time with Gordon Ramsay, for example, while a snack of caviar-topped fried chicken mimics one she cooked for Prince Harry’s wedding. Still, this is no solo act: Max Gurtler’s wine list is triumphant, and the service is some of Sydney’s best – expect synchronised wine pours, and a parade of chefs delivering dishes.

First-timers are well served by the Classic menu, which brings Australian touches (such as glorious marron), to celebrated Core dishes, but the seasonal option, with greater influence from head chef Alan Stuart, is just as alluring. Think Port Lincoln squid with splendid clam chowder, or a precise dish of Murray cod with smoked mussels. No wonder we’re all nodding along.