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Next door to what? Only Neil Perry’s headline-stealing Margaret on one side and the extraordinarily popular Baker Bleu on the other. But this sibling holds its own, finding room in the margins to sketch out its own identity, one that’s about all-day, drop-in drop-out dining, backed by simplicity on the plate and in the glass, even as that simplicity hides real depth under the surface.

Casual? Maybe, but there are still 32 dishes on the menu. Thirty-two! The trevally ceviche is classic Perry, with lime, chilli and avocado bringing balance and hum. Smoked oysters are spun into a heavenly dip for rye crisps. Spanner crab is turned through taglioni with chilli and garlic. And staff will happily halve the burger (CopperTree beef cooked rare, cheese oozing out) for two. Next door? It’s almost the main event.