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Ambition is baked into this valley restaurant. Out back there are beds flush with spigarello, broad beans and kohlrabi. Fruit trees are growing in, cattle, lamb and poultry roam freely, and there’s accommodation on the way.

It’s no small trick flipping a dilapidated homestead into a destination, but nearly two years in, things are starting to coalesce. The elegant finishes in the dining room help, but the rest is down to the smarts in the kitchen. Take the Lot 101 lamb, presented as loin, neck and rolled belly all cooked attentively, beautifully over coals and in the wood oven. =

Crisp-skinned river trout with yam-like crosnes is equally impressive, as are wood-roasted carrots with estate bresaola. Earlier dishes, especially the vegetable plate, could use the same sense of abundance, but this is impressive stuff, backed by a broad cellar and charming service. More to come, surely.