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This majestic room on the first level of a historic sandstone wool store has always been a hotbed of energy, thanks to a cracking cocktail list and the technical smarts of executive chef Alex Wong. But the move from set menu to a la carte gives Wong and head chef Peter Tran a new playground for their Italian with-an-Asian-filter schtick.

Six-o’clock swillers and couples line the marble bar and hog banquettes, soaking up the moody atmosphere and ordering tater tots laced with fried curry leaves and salted egg, or pork cutlet “char siu” with sweet onions.

Pasta (made downstairs at sibling Grana) is always of interest, especially floppy tubes of rigati coated in a spicy Sichuan lamb ragu, mapo tofu style. Italy’s apple crostata gets a miso caramel and zabaglione gelato, while an ever changing “chef’s selection” is a testing ground for new ideas.