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Downstairs is a recently refurbished riverside pub with a wrestling match on the big screen and a serious-sized chicken schnitzel on the Budgie Classics menu. Venture upstairs, however – to the quiet, airy, limestone and leather Lago Cucina – and your schnitty will come in the form of pork cotoletta with unctuous sage cream sauce and bright baby rocket.

It’s a beautiful space where you can gaze down on anglers wetting their lines and load the table with Italian classics such as long-flavoured meatballs and sweet local king prawns still sizzling in the pot.

There’s juicy pesto-graced chicken from the wood-fired oven, calamari fritti showcasing Hawkesbury squid and plenty of puffy-crusted pizza options loaded with sopressa, more prawns and fior di latte. In other words, a nice bit of simple, delicious fun for day trippers and lifers.