Humbug

Charming bistro helps bring new life to Hunter Street Mall.

November 11, 2024

2 / 9Italian fare that doesn’t play by the rules.Supplied

3 / 9Cape gooseberries and labne on charred sourdough.David Griffen.

4 / 9Anchovy and parmesan custard Danish pastries.Edwina Pickles

5 / 9Mafaldine with beef cheek, brisket and pedro ximenez. Edwina Pickles

6 / 9Inside the Newcastle restaurant.Edwina Pickles

7 / 9Salt-and-pepper pork ribs with chilli and basil. Edwina Pickles

8 / 9Charcoal Murray cod with lentils and greens.Edwina Pickles

9 / 9Fontina and onion tortelini with black truffle.Edwina Pickles

15.5/20

Contemporary$$

Newcastle’s burgeoning reputation as a food destination is aided in no small part by this bistro dishing up bundles of charm in the rejuvenated Hunter Street Mall.

Soothing interiors – timber finishes with comfy banquettes, greenery and vibrant prints by local artists – roll out the welcome mat, while a knockout menu finds a way to make the marriage of European and Korean flavours feel totally natural.

A snack-filled table might feature an airy hunk of sesame-sprinkled focaccia glistening with honey; chickpea fritters topped with tangy-sweet eggplant and ricotta salata; and school-prawn fritti kissed with spicy ssamjang to wrap in crisp cos lettuce leaves.

For mains, pork rib grilled over charcoal arrives alongside punchy banchan, while creamy corn macaroni with miso and lime-sharpened burnt butter is bold and beautiful. Add sustainable, small-batch wines and endearing service, and it’s comfort and elegance all over.