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Let’s chaat! The snacky chaat of crunchy kale leaves striped with tamarind chutney, black chickpeas and sweet yoghurt is proof that this is no ordinary street food.

Designed in homage to the food stalls that set up under the road flyovers of Indian cities, Flyover Fritterie is a bright corner kitchen with can-do staff and metallic mesh stairs rising to the first floor (like an overpass, if you squint).

Gunjan Aylawadi’s food is meat-free, freshly brewed chai runs hot and cold and there are a handful of cocktails and wines to amplify the spices. Dishes play on a recurring theme of textural contrast, vibrant colours and zingy chutney.

Crisp, golden jaffles stuffed with smoky eggplant baingan bharta are fast-food fun, and fat, crunchy chickpea-flour fritters are nonnegotiable. When they come with a bowl of thick, satisfying coconut lime masoor lentil dhal, it’s a meal in itself.