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There will always be room in Gymea for cosy bars like The Snug and cafes such as The Portuguese Bakery, but Fior is a step up. Locals Tristan Rosier and Rebecca Fanning made their mark with Arthur and Jane in Surry Hills, and there’s a similar buzz in this packed dining room, as negronis are sipped and anchovies are smashed onto focaccia.

Cover the table with antipasti, from LP’s mortadella to arrowhead squid in a light, crunchy batter. Then there’s mafalde in a vibrant green cavolo nero sauce oozing with stracciatella, or split, spicy, scorchy Skull Island prawns.

Wait, is that a gelato trolley trundling by? Yes! Service isn’t always prompt on busy nights, but Fior comes packed with cocktails, pasta, steaks and a dreamy tiramisu – all the right ingredients for a celebration.