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When Bentley Group’s high-ceilinged, brass and leather-bound brasserie opened in 2023, it was the place to dress up for a night of cocktails, French fizz and whole-roasted duck.

“It’s a Saturday, let’s shell out for caviar!” There’s still a sense of occasion in the posh Capella Hotel dining room, but these days it seems like more guests are simply keen for one of three steaks and a glass of (very good) red before retiring upstairs.

Service can swing between finely calibrated and barely there, too. Nevertheless, the kitchen’s technique is sharp, and the produce excellent. Kinross Station lamb rump is beautifully pink and charred against the crunch of Roman beans, while juicy Borrowdale pork neck is sweetened with sticky currants on a bed of macadamia cream.

A picture-perfect millefeuille is layered with strawberry cream and white- chocoate Chantilly, but there’s also the Australian-focused cheese trolley, waiting handsomely in the wings.