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The pocket of Pittwater Road occupied by Boronia Kitchen might not have much in the way of a vista, but there are plenty of glitzier strips missing the first-rate food this local hero offers.

The menu, overseen by Aria alumnus Simon Sandall, is imbued with a sense of care and precision, while the floor team is warm and personable from your first foot through the door.

The yuzu-spiked slab of prawn toast deserves its fandom, but smoked mussel and prawn escabeche – embellished with whipped roe and a bump of briny caviar – is also a must. Main courses are generous, and a crunchy, blistered round of roast pork belly elevated with native pepper jus hits all the comforting notes without being a snooze.

Add a short but well-judged wine selection by the glass, and it’s no wonder Boronia’s star continues to shine.