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Blackheath in winter is quintessential Blue Mountains, with sunlight that glistens through bare branches and a night-time biting chill. Luckily, there’s also Blaq at Kyah Hotel. Between the NSW-centric wine list and three wood stoves, you’ll be rosy-cheeked in no time.

The approach is smartly local – Kyah has its own gardens supplemented by nearby growers and chef Mate Herceg’s organic farm.

And while a hearty dinner could consist of small plates alone – golden roasted cauliflower with pickles and curried mung beans; venison tartare and quail egg; stacked polenta chips – the grill is the star.

Rangers Valley striploin, Junee lamb rump and Yamba prawns are charred over coals, balanced with salads grown in the kitchen’s pretty greenhouse.

There’s no need to rush either, especially if you’re staying at the hotel: relax with a digestive and a slice of chocolate cake with sour cherries, and home is just across the garden.