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By the time Bathers’ American walnut cheese trolley rolls up, and the setting sun turns the harbour a deep, silky blue, you may find yourself leaning back with a glass of Mount Mary thinking, “Well, this is as good as it gets.”

The Bruny Island cheese selection is as good as it gets too, bridging lamb loin and spinach rolled in buttery lamb belly, and koshihikari rice custard crowned with reduced-milk ice cream.

New-ish chef Aaron Ward brings a fresh breath of creativity to the heritage digs, these days decked out with bright art and orchids and blue-and white stripes. It’s exactly where you want to snack on impressively crunchy potato scallops seasoned with powdered seaweed and vinegar, or push the boat out with a rib-eye sparked up by biquinho peppers.

The wine list boasts some truly impressive drops, and an on-message floor team rarely leaves a glass un-poured. Now, back to that cheese.