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The dining room’s slate, steel and marble features might seem chilly, but first impressions at this consistently satisfying trattoria are quickly defrosted by smiles from keen staff and the happy din of locals sharing plates of crisp-fried calamari and pillowy focaccia.

Roman-style pizza al taglio – a thick square of tomato-coated bread topped, most popularly, with rocket, prosciutto and parmesan – sets the cockles alight, particularly when accompanied by a glass from the gently-priced Italian-centric wine list.

Pastas also bring plenty of warmth, and the specials board could list rustic orecchiette cups with flecks of broccoli and clusters of Italian sausage, while slow-braised lamb ragu tagliatelle is a more regular affair.

From there, only a slice of the golden-skinned herb-laced porchetta stands between you, creamy tiramisu and an invigorating amaro.