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You can take Corey Costelloe out of Rockpool, but you can’t take Rockpool out of Costelloe. The longtime Rockpool Bar & Grill executive chef has brought a full on steakhouse to the industrial backstreets of Marrickville, installing wood grills, a long marble bar and chef’s table in what was David Allison’s Stix Cafe.

It’s a meaty affair, with Costelloe transforming different cuts of premium wagyu into baby rissoles, Middle Eastern bastourma and white bolognese sauce for cavatelli, plus a number of dry-aged big-ticket cuts destined for a charring. Things around the edges are just as impressive: bread rolls dipped into nuoc cham, outrageously crunchy potatoes cooked in beef fat and Russian honey cake to finish.

This is high-end chef-driven dining, retro-fitted into a casual, almost pop-up-style space, the kind where you always end up chatting to your neighbours.