Wild’s broad appeal is no small feat. Snag a bench seat at the cosy timber-lined former fire station and rub shoulders with weekenders or the town’s creatives. Sip a negroni sbagliato, enlivened with house vermouth, or pick a bottle from the long and parochial wine list.

The single-page menu can be throttled to speed and scale, the kitchen happy to split portions for smaller appetites or quick visits. Things start simple – eggplant croquettes, perhaps – but quickly crescendo to crisp barramundi wings piqued by fish sauce caramel and self-serve chilli oil.

Snappy witlof with pear and pistachio is a seasonal burst of texture, nestled neatly between the many proteins at the business end. Pork belly with refreshing cabbage and mint slaw is part of a multi-dish charm offensive; ricotta doughnuts sweetened by a sea of orange custard bring it home.