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Heading down the stairs of the Grand Hotel into the grotto-like basement that houses Stefano’s is still one of Australia’s great bucket-list dining experiences.

The restaurant, which chef Stefano de Pieri has been running for more than 30 years, has never strayed from serving straightforward, beautifully sourced Italian food.

The $130 tasting menu follows a classic arc. Focaccia and salumi; a seasonal soup; sformato, the light-as-air yet utterly rich souffle of cheese and greens; handmade pasta. There might be mussels in a surprising sauce of tomato, ’nduja, lemongrass and ginger.

For secondi, perhaps Murray cod or a lovely piece of local beef simply cooked to bring out the best in the ingredients. Service is as warm as the space, and wine conversations – be they with the staff or de Pieri himself – are always a pleasure.