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Sri Lanka’s most famous restaurant has opened its ninth outpost on Melbourne’s very own Flinders Lane. The 100-seat stunner in art deco Invicta House promises perfect crustaceans (in this case, mud crabs from Queensland and the Northern Territory), sustainably sourced and ethically killed to order.

It’s hard to go past garlic-chilli crab, wok-tossed with olive oil and soy as well as garlic and chilli. The flavour of the shell permeates the oil, which becomes as delicious as the sweet, plump seafood: you’ll need either bread or rice to mop it up. The rest of the menu nods to Sri Lanka, Japan and the Mediterranean. Funky, rich crab liver pâté is a shareable starter. Finish with coconut creme brulee served inside a coconut.

You’ll be given a bib and implements to help you crack claws and dig deep, but if that sounds like too much work, order the baked crab, a gratineed crab risotto, served in a shell for eating with a spoon.