After testing Melbourne’s appetite at sold-out pop-ups in 2022 and 2024, Sri Lanka’s most famous restaurant has just opened on Flinders Lane. Ministry of Crab launched in Colombo in 2011 and is a regular on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants hit-list (an offshoot of World’s 50 Best). With branches from Mumbai to Malaysia, the Melbourne venue is the team’s ninth temple of crab.

Why do I care?

The restaurant is a 100-seat stunner in art deco Invicta House, once a silk factory, more recently a hostel. A palette of orange (representing crab) and green (the sea) dominate, and there are elevated banquettes and counter seating overlooking the open kitchen.

Ministry of Crab’s “Constitution” promises perfect crustaceans (in this case, mud crabs from Queensland and the Northern Territory), sustainably sourced and ethically killed to order.

What should I eat?

Crab, of course! It’s hard to go past garlic-chilli crab, wok-tossed with olive oil and soy as well as garlic and chilli. The flavour of the shell permeates the oil, which becomes as delicious as the sweet, plump seafood: you’ll need either bread or rice to mop it up. The rest of the menu nods to Sri Lanka, Japan and the Mediterranean. Funky, rich crab liver pâté is a shareable starter. Finish with coconut creme brulee served inside a coconut.

How much does it cost?

Crab prices may fluctuate but, at the moment, a one-kilogram crab is $190. Add entree, sides and dessert and you’re looking at around $300 for two.

And to drink?

Nothing too serious. The Silent Noise Mofo Bianco vermentino blend is a fragrant, floral white to carry the garlic chilli crab. The restaurant bought an extra dishwasher to cope with crabby fingerprints so it’s OK to sip mid-feast.

Where should I sit?

The third bar seat from the right is my pick for wok viewing. Eating crabs with a group is fun: private rooms will be opening soon.

Is it really messy?

Don’t come straight from a manicure or wear flowing sleeves. You’ll be given a bib and implements to help you crack claws and dig deep, but if that sounds like too much work, order the baked crab, a gratineed crab risotto, served in a shell for eating with a spoon.

How close is this Ministry of Crab to the original?

I ate at the Colombo restaurant last month: it’s a well-oiled, touristy machine but there’s no dismissing the excellent crab, supported by fluffy Sri Lankan-style white bread and hand-pounded sambols. Sri Lanka has bigger, meatier crabs but Australian mud crabs stack up well in flavour. Prawns as fat as your forearm are served in Colombo; we don’t have those, but marron and leader prawns are excellent subs. Sri Lankan team members are on duty for the opening.

Who’s behind it?

Ministry of Crab’s Japanese-Sri Lankan co-founder Dharshan Munidasa partnered with local restaurateurs Harsha Kumarasingha and Jayantha Warnakula to open Flinders Lane. The duo’s H&J Restaurants oversaw the Melbourne pop-ups and has previously focused on fast-casual (Nando’s, Jamaica Blue) but they’re expanding their repertoire. As well as crab central, they are soon to open II II VI (Two-Two-Six) steakhouse in the clubby basement space below.

Lunch Wednesday-Sunday; dinner Tuesday-Sunday

226 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, instagram.com/ministryofcrab.australia