They don't make 'em like this any more. The Old Fitzroy has been the heart of its community since Tilly Devine ruled the roost in the 'loo. It's delightfully shabby around the edges and having a John Boston lager in its blessedly non-refurbished front bar is reason enough to visit, but now there's another: the kitchen has just (as we went to press) changed hands. Gone is the laksa; in its place, Black Angus with cafe de Paris butter, lamb bangers and mash and an antipasto plate slumming as a ploughman's lunch. Just the sort of tucker the pub deserves.