Good-natured banter drifts out from the kitchen as you settle into this bright, breezy dining room with great water views. Such good cheer sets the mood for indulgent ricotta gnocchi in a puddle of quattro formaggi sauce with pistachio gremolata and a snip of basil. Given the setting, a seafood tasting plate is a must. a natural oyster, gravlax of salmon, seared tuna, crisp-fried squid and whitebait finished with a flourish of saffron-bright aioli. The sharp, salty flavours of aged black angus beef fillet are paired with fat pancetta lardons, a plank of potato galette and oomphy thyme jus. It was a case of an ingredient too far for barramundi with miso pesto, snowpeas, salmon gravlax and a too-heavy lime beurre blanc. Vanilla panna cotta, with its Botticelli wobble, puts things back on track. With its pearls of strawberry jelly, tart ribbons of poached rhubarb and refreshing watermelon granita, you're having as good a time as the team behind the stove.