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It’s difficult to make muesli exciting, but at Ellen it’s a textural delight of puffed rice, yoghurt and crunch, served with a big scoop of green pistachio cream and fresh strawberries. It’s that kind of commitment to the small things which makes this place special. Fish burgers are generously portioned, carefully wrapped and full of acidity and heat from pickles and seeded mustard. Weekly specials take it further, with charred octopus, say, paired with the one-two punch of orange vinaigrette and Tajin spice mix.

Good to know: About half of the seating is outside — lovely on a sunny day, less so when it rains.