To make dressing, pound chillies and sugar in a mortar and pestle to form a paste. Stir in lime juice and fish sauce and check seasoning.

To prepare squid, cut off the tentacles and cut down the centre of the squid so it will open out flat. Score the inside with a crisscross pattern then slice lengthways into 2cm wide strips. Cut the tentacles in half.

Blanch squid in a large pot of salted water for about 30 seconds until it just turns opaque, then drain and let cool.

Toss squid, shallots, lime leaf, lemongrass and herbs together in a bowl. Add dressing, gently toss again and serve.