1. Preheat oven to 200C (180C fan-forced). Line an oven tray with baking paper (or grease the tray with a little olive oil) and set aside.

2. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add the oats, brown sugar and fennel seeds, then use your hands to combine, making sure the ingredients are well distributed. Make a well in the centre and add the buttermilk. Using a wooden spoon (or even better, your hands, formed like a claw), stir to combine, starting from the centre and gradually drawing in more flour as you go, until you get a rough dough. Add a little water – up to 50ml – if it looks a bit dry, and continue to mix until it all comes together in one mass.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured worktop and knead very briefly, just until it forms a rough ball. Transfer onto the centre of the lined baking tray, then make a cross-shaped indentation halfway into the dough using the long handle of a wooden spoon.

4. Bake for about 40 minutes or until deep golden brown. The bottom of the loaf should sound hollow when cooked through. Serve while still warm.

Tip: Throw in a handful of currants or sliced dried figs to convert this into a semi-sweet loaf, to be toasted and buttered for breakfast.

Find more of Helen Goh's recipes in the Good Food Favourite Recipes cookbook.