The Stuart Rattle decor in this grand Deco room evokes the mood of yesterday, but the menu is completely today. Likewise, the service combines traditional skills with a modern friendliness. But the food is the hero. Every course wows with delicate, diverse and unexpected flavours. Gently tart fermented red cabbage and wasabi creme fraiche compliment lightly cured rainbow trout. Roast beetroot, blood plums and Japanese pickled plums artfully combine sweet and savoury. Baby snapper fillet and calamari come with smooth mayonnaise and fresh flavours of bok choy and pea jelly. Arabic spices in tender pink Hampshire Downs lamb loin are foiled by sheep’s yoghurt and sweet heirloom carrots. There’s surprise also in desserts such as silky passionfruit caramel custard, yoghurt foam and lemon verbena; and caramelised banana with peanut ice-cream and dehydrated chocolate cake crumb. It’s all so exciting: perhaps stay the night and do it all again to order what was missed the night before.

And … Lots of home-grown produce – vegetables, lamb and beef.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Sophistication in the country.
Best bit Dedication to quality.
Worst bit Old bathrooms.