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Round a bend in the road to find a bustling repurposed truck repair shed, its roller door thrown open, meat-smokers humming away like burly cars toiled over by mechanics of meat.

There’s 12-hour pulled pork, fall-apart brisket with a peppery dry rub and more, all smoked low and slow, piled onto metal trays and rounded out by classic American sides: pickles, slaw, potato hash.

Wooden picnic tables, hanging plants and Shania Twain on the radio feel relaxed and family-friendly, but these folk take their barbecue seriously. And their ethics.Certified B Corp, Red Gum composts, rejects single-use plastics and prints the provenance of free-range meat on all menus.

Vegetarians have a seat at the table thanks to a bonanza of buttery cornbread, rugged fried eggplant, mac and cheese and meaty smoked mushrooms. Ask for extra napkins and let the good times roll.