An ex-Kafeneion staffer heads up this Greek wine bar with a meze-heavy menu in Fitzroy North
Muses Wine Bar has opened in the former Pinotta space.
Greek$$
Greek restaurant Kafeneion’s former venue manager Yianni Malindretos has struck out on his own, opening wine bar Muses where beloved bistro previously Pinotta stood. It’s a hard act to follow, but Malindretos hopes to fill the void with a laidback venue that locals can use as they please, from spontaneous drinks (raki-spiked cocktail, anyone?) to feasts influenced by his Cretan heritage.
The meze-heavy menu includes taramasalata, spanakopita, soutzoukakia (baked meatballs), and sesame seed-crusted slabs of feta, served molten with Cretan honey. Youvarlakia avgolemono is a lemony Greek meatball soup. A baklava-tiramisu hybrid – the best parts of both desserts in a nest of kataifi pastry – is “what 90 per cent of diners want to try, even if they’re full,” Malindretos says.
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Tomas Telegramma is a food, drinks and culture writer.