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You might ask yourself why there aren’t more places that unite the joys of banh mi with the novelty of a drive-through. As far as we can tell, Banh Mi Vietnam in Maidstone, located in the car park of a still-functioning wedding reception venue, is Melbourne’s only active drive-through selling crusty rolls filled with everything from cold cuts to lemongrass tofu.

Tiger rolls here are big – almost in Subway foot-long territory – crunchy yet pillowy in the middle, and have enough structure to hold everything without collapsing. Achieving the elusive combination of juicy meat and ASMR-crunchy crackling, the pork in the crispy roast pork banh mi is thickly sliced with nicely rendered fat. For the crackling averse, lemongrass pork is flavourful with sesame seeds throughout, a bit like a stir-fry in a roll.

No matter your choice of protein, the four Cs (chilli, coriander, cucumber, carrot) are present and correct, as are the four Os: spring onion spear, dark-green spring onion slices, white onion and crispy fried shallots. Rolls are served in a white paper bag and a cardboard box to minimise mess in your car.

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