This well-loved suburban bistro is full of surprises. The handsome interior, with its black sateen wallpaper and wine-lined shelves spirits you away from the streetscape and train station opposite. It can be a tad noisy but the happy locals don't seem to mind. The kitchen's modern shake-up of French classics is a surprise too, largely in a positive way. An entree of red claw yabby 'thermidor' is served as a beautifully cooked whole piece on a swipe of sweet corn veloute. A simple main of three luscious pink discs of Milly Hill lamb on a velvety aubergine puree is exemplary. A Roquefort souffle, however, might have a pleasant bite but suffered from overcooking, while a bouillabaisse lacked depth of flavour and cried out for the traditional rouille to give it some punch. Desserts are yin and yang. A creme caramel plays it safe, while a 'caramelia cremeux' surprised perhaps a little too much with caramel popcorn, spiced pumpkin and dots of milky foam.